Russian Couple Climbs Nanga Parbat Without Oxygen

Celebrated alpinists Denis Urubko and his wife Maria Cardell, both from Russia, accomplished the stunning feat of summiting Nanga Parbat (8,126 m)—Pakistan’s imposing “Killer Mountain”—without using supplementary oxygen. Their ascent also marked the opening of a new alpine-style route via the Diamir Face, combining technical skill, speed, and precision.

• Summit duo: Renowned climber Denis Urubko (52) and his partner Maria Cardell (50) reached the top in alpine style—fast and self-reliant—with no extra oxygen.

• New route established: Their ascent charted a fresh line through the Diamir Face, a steep and less explored flank of the mountain

• Fast and light: The pair followed a minimalist style, lightweight gear, minimal camping, quick turnaround—returning safely to base camp

• Impressive credentials: Urubko has now summited 28 of the world’s 8,000m peaks, pioneered 7 new routes, and completed 2 first winter ascents, all without supplementary oxygen 

Denis Urubko

• Polish-born, now Russian; legendary high-altitude mountaineer

• Has summited all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen

• Known for solo, speed, and winter first ascents (e.g., Makalu, Gasherbrum II) 

Maria Cardell

• Veteran climber and partner of Urubko

• Regular climbing partner, sharing pioneering ascents

Their success on Nanga Parbat reinforces their legacy in pushing mountaineering limits via elite alpine technique.

• Alpine style: Climbed light, fast, and unassisted—in the purest form of mountaineering

• Innovation: The new Diamir Face route offers a new challenge on Nanga Parbat

• No oxygen use: Fighting extreme altitude and lack of supplemental air

This ascent elevates their stature among elite climbers who have summited the peak without oxygen—a rare, risky accomplishment.

• Urubko’s résumé: 28 eight-thousanders, 7 new routes, 2 winter ascents — all without bottled oxygen

• New route validation: Adds to mountaineering history, offering future climbers an alternative pathway

• Sets a benchmark: Both climbers demonstrated human endurance and technical mountaineering applicable globally

• Base camp operations: Local support by the Alpine Club of Pakistan and rescue teams ensured post-summit safety

• Rescue from Broad Peak: Simultaneously, Pakistani authorities airlifted an injured Polish climber from Broad Peak Camp II 

• Broader season summary: So far this season, around 24 climbers have summited Nanga Parbat (including 5 Pakistanis) 

The 2025 campaign has seen ~24 successful summits, amid rescues and some fatalities

Alpine Club of Pakistan continues base camp coordination, rescue logistics, and medical support

Monitoring continues to ensure climber safety during harsh summer conditions

The Russian power couple’s no-oxygen ascent of Nanga Parbat, forging a brand-new route, is a landmark event in modern alpinism. Intertwined with Pakistani climbers’ triumphs, this season underscores a shift to ultra-light, rapid, high-altitude expeditions—a vision redefining today’s mountainous frontier.